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Purslane goat stew

Known in al-Andalus as tafāyā (تفايا), a word of Berber origin, it is one of the dishes allegedly imported by the famous Abbasid musician and gastronome Ziryāb (d. 852). In the East, it was known as isfīdhbāj(a), a Persian borrowing which translates as ‘white stew’ because it was originally made with cheese.

It seems to have suited the Andalusian palate since it became extremely popular; it would be served as the first course of every meal, whereas the great physician Ibn Zuhr (1094–1162) claimed it was one of the best ways to cook meat.

This particular tafāyā is made with kid (a small goat), which is cooked with water, salt, olive oil, coriander, mint, almonds, onions, purslane and, of course, lots of eggs! The result is aptly called a ‘green’ tafāyā.

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Mamluk Fennel Yoghurt

This recipe from 14th-century Egypt requires cultivated fennel, which is called shamār (شمار) here, an infrequent word for this herb, which is usually known as rāziyānaj (رازيانج) and, in the Maghrib and al-Andalus, as nāfiʿ (نافع) or basbās (بسباس).

The fennel is rubbed with salt and then left in a bowl to dry it out. The dairy element is equally easy to do; drain yoghurt and mix in pounded garlic and mint with olive oil. When that is done, it is time to add the yoghurt mixture to the fennel. Before serving, sprinkle some mint and dried rosebuds on top, and dot black olives about the surface. You can eat it immediately.

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Andalusian milk Tharīda with mutton

The tharīd (ثريد) is one of the oldest dishes in Arab cuisine and was imported from the East to North Africa and al-Andalus, where it gained a new lease of life, with the cookery books containing many recipes and new variants, such as this one, made with milk, from The Exile’s Cookbook.

The meat is cut up into large chunks and then cooked with pepper, salt, coriander, and onion. Once the meat is done, it is set aside and finely crumbled unleavened bread is added to the broth, to which milk is gradually added until the bread is saturated with it. The tharīd is transferred to a serving dish, after which freshly made butter (home-made is best of course!). The final touch comes in the guise of a dusting of sugar. The cakey texture of the bread is an ideal complement to the meat, whereas the butter and sugar provide a subtle sweet counterpoint. A delight!

The 12th-century Andalusian physician Ibn Zuhr stated that if the milk is boiled, the tharida is tastier and milder, but very harmful! I guess everything in life comes at a price!

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    Abbasid citron syrup

    This is a recreation of a rubb (ربّ), or inspissated fruit juice, made with pressed and strained citron pulp, sweetened with sugar (though honey can also be used), and boiled down with a spice sachet of saffron and nutmeg. When it is ready, wait for it to cool down to drink. Though primarily a medicinal drink which, so the author assures us, is beneficial for all kinds of stomach ailments, it really can be enjoyed even for those who are spared those!

    The 11th-century pharmacologist Ibn Jazla has a similar recipe, adding that it is even better if made with the peel, with the spice sachet containing ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves and long pepper.

    In Muslim culture, the citron is endorsed by a famous Hadith, according to which “the example of a believer who recites the Qur’an and acts on it, is like a citron which tastes nice and smells nice.”

    It was praised in pre-Islamic times as well and in his book on ‘Prophetic medicine’, Ibn Qayyim al-Jawziyya (d. 1350)reported that one of the Persian Sassanid rulers was displeased with his physicians and ordered they be jailed, but he gave them a choice of food. They chose the citron and when queried by the monarch, they replied: “Because it quickly becomes a perfume, its appearance gladdens the heart, its peel is fragrant, the flesh is a fruit, the pith a food, and its seeds an antidote.

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    North African Qahiriyya

    A 13th-century North African and Andalusi twist on the famous ‘Cairene‘ sweet (قاهرية) –fried marzipan doughnuts . This particular iteration from The Exile’s Cookbook requires a mixture made with sugar, almonds, rose water, cassia, cinnamon, spikenard, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, galangal, and camphor. This is formed into small kaʿk shapes — i.e. small rings. Then, it’s time to make the batter, with flour, sugar, yeast, starch, salt, and again some almonds.

    The author recommends using almond oil for the deepfrying, though olive oil is a suitable alternative. Once the oil has come to a boil, the qahiriyya are ready for their hot bath — just long enough for them to brown, after which they should be swiftly removed. Serve drenched in honey or thickened rose-water syrup, and dust with caster sugar. Yes, indeed!

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    al-Ma’mun’s citron stew

    A recipe for a lamb stew made with citron pulp ( حماض, hummād) attributed to the Abbasid Caliph al-Ma’mūn (d. 833), the son of Harun al-Rashid, and founder of the famous ‘House of Wisdom’ (بيت الحكمة, bayt al-hikma). A renowned gastronome, he also gave his name to a popular rice pudding and is said to have written a cookery book, which is unfortunately lost.

    The recipe involves lamb chunks cooked with onion, coriander, olive oil, chickpeas and salt. Once the meat is done, the citron pulp is added, while pomegranate juice and some sugar is used to take the edge off the sourness. It is seasoned with pepper, coriander, and ginger. There is, however, a very interestiing twist in the tail as it should be poured over pieces of bread, thus turning it into a tharid. So, there you have it — two for the price of one! What’s not to like?

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    Reviving figs Mamluk style

    This intriguing recipe from 14th-century Egypt for turning dried figs into fresh ones is very simple. A mixture of honey and saffron is stuffed into the dates which are then placed on a pot with boiling water and leaving the steam to do the rest. Then the figs should be covered and left to rest overnight, after which, so the author explains, “they will become as if they have just been picked.” Whilst this is perhaps an exaggeration, the result is nonetheless spectacular and very tasty.

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    Medieval North African doughnuts (isfanj)

    This is the ancestor of the modern North African delicacy, known as sfenj (سفنج) in Morocco and Algeria, bambalunī (بمبلوني < Italian bombolone) in Tunisia, and sfinz (سفنز) in Libya. Both the Arabic word isfanj (إسفنج) and the English ‘sponge’ go back to the Greek σπογγιά, albeit via the Latin spongia (spongea).

    Interestingly enough, in this recipe from The Exile’s Cookbook is, in fact, very similar to another Arab sweet variously known as ‘awwāma (عوامة, ‘floater’), luqmat al-Qāḍī (لقمة القاضي, ‘The Judge’s morsel’), zalābiyya (زلابية) or luqayma (لقيمة, ‘little morsel’), depending on the region.

    This particular isfanj is made with semolina, water, salt and yeast being kneaded into a light dough. After proofing, the idea is to take some dough into your hand and clench your fist, as a result of which some of the dough is forced out from between your thumb and index finger. It is this piece that protrudes that will be deep-fried in olive oil.

    They were made in two sizes — small and large, known respectively as mughaddar (مغدّر) and aqṣād (أقصاد). Once the isfanj have turned golden, remove them from the pan and, after draining off the oil, and serve. Note that before frying up the first batch, the author recommends using one shaped like a modern doughnut shape to test whether the dough has been sufficiently proofed. They are particularly nice when dunked in honey!

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    Must murrī

    Usually, murrī (مري) — the most widely used condiment in medieval Arab cuisine — was made by rotting and fermenting barley. However, in this unusual recipe from The Exile’s Cookbook, wheat flour is used together with must (grape juice). The flour is kneaded into a dough and then baked until it is black before being crushed and them put in a pot with must and salt. The final unusual element in the recipe that quinces, fennel seeds, nigella, oregano and citron leaves are added to the mixture, as well as some honey, if desired, which gives the murrī a slightly sweet edge. Afer an overnight oven bake, it is ready for straining, and then use. It is a perfect dip, but can also be used as a great flavour enhancer in savory dishes.

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    Mamluk Citron Marmalade

    This recipe from The Sultan’s Feast for preserving citron pulp calls for sugar, pistachios, (toasted) hazelnuts, rose jam (home-made, of course!), saffron, musk and rose water, all of which are cooked together. The author recommends storing it in a wide-mouthed clay jar fumigated with agarwood and ambergris, after which it should be covered well ‘so that the vapours cannot escape’, which ‘is the height of goodness’. A tall claim but one that is indeed borne out by the result!

    It is a wonderful combination of complementary tangy and aromatic flavours, and is not only a tasty side, but also an amazing alternative to the marmalade on your morning toast!