Sparrow’s Head Broad Beans

This 13th-century Andalusi recipe from The Exile’s Cookbook is a rather unusually named preparation of fresh broad beans; after topping and tailing the beans, they are fried in olive oil, and served with the very distinct Andalusi spice combination of pepper, cinnamon and salt. The name of the dish — ‘the sparrow’s head’ (رأس برطال, ra’s bartal) — is somewhat mysterious. It could refer to the shape of the beans, or perhaps it is linked to the high-pitched sound they make when they’re being fried? This recipe can, according to the author, also be made with sprouted broad beans.

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